THE 2004 PAPUA NEW GUINEA AIR SAFARI
by Val Hayes
Once in a lifetime a trip surpasses every other adventure you have ever undertaken. Thus it was with the 2004 PNG Air Safari. 14 intrepid adventurers set forth to meet in Horn Island on July 4th. Warm tropical heat welcomed the arrivals as the 14 participants gathered and shared their first meal together at the Gateway Torres Strait Resort. After introductions, pre dinner drinks around the pool and a delicious meal, serious planning began for the following morning’s first flight into PNG itself.
The group consisted of Bob & John Bates, both of whom have spent many years living and working in PNG, flying Bob’s Baron P2 BOB.
Co-pilot Dianne Cowling accompanied Bill Finlen from Brisbane flying Bill’s Bonanza VH-TYE. They had both previously participated in PNG safari’s.
Barry & Cheryl Arentz flew their Piper Lance VH-KEF, also previous participants.
David Peel & Geoff Thomas came in their jointly owned Bonanza A36, VH-EZW. David & Geoff knew several of the other members of the party but this was their first PNG safari.
John & Betty Sutching also from Brisbane, flew their Baron VH-CEW and Tamaris Hoffman & Stephen McNaughton came in their Piper Seneca II, VH-TZF. For Tamaris & Stephen, this was their first venture into PNG.
Val & Greg Hayes joined the party, eager and excited passengers for Bob.
At Horn Island, we quickly learned that Bob is fondly known as Mother Goose!! Much as the lead goose gathers the goslings into formation for their long trip south during the winter, so Bob prepares, leads and gathers the ‘flying birds’ as they head north for the wilds of Papua New Guinea. Bill was also leader of the pack and made sure all the necessary regulations were attended and clearly understood by everyone.
MONDAY July 5th
6am breakfast saw the pilot’s scanning Bob’s trusty computer for the latest weather report. The verdict showed lots of cloud cover and each pilot had the choice of either flying under or over it. Bill led the goslings with a few minutes between each take-off and Bob trailed the pack to make sure everyone got away safely. Bob chose to fly mostly at 6,000 feet, just above the clouds until we came closer into Bensbach, when we were thrilled to fly just above the tree tops doing some big circles over wild deer and other free roaming animals as we watched for other aircraft and saw some make their landings. When all were down Bob came into the Bensbach airstrip for the first of many perfect landings he was to delight us with during this adventure.
It was marvellous to step onto PNG soil and be met by a sea of happy brown faces. Customs & Quarantine officials dealt with our entry into PNG from Australia and we drove the short distance from the airstrip to Bensbach Lodge after the pilot’s had all secured their aircraft. Bensbach exceeded my wildest expectations. The lodge itself being a long building on the side of the Bensbach River, brought us every comfort we could hope for and more, considering we were now in a very remote and seldom visited area of Papua.
After a delicious lunch of freshly caught barramundi, we proceeded by jet boat a short distance down the river to the local village. There we were welcomed by the villagers who kindly and proudly showed us all around their village. The women in our group were of course captivated by the beautiful Papuan babies and small children whose eyes shine with the joy of heaven itself. A light shower of rain dampened no-one’s enthusiasm as we were taken into every corner of the village. The villagers assisted us back into the jet boats and waved goodbye till we were gone from sight back up the river to our amazing accommodation at the Lodge. Hot showers preceded our gathering for Happy Hour on the verandah with a view of the setting sun across the Bensbach River. A meal of Roast Venison and more chatting and de briefing of the day’s flight brought us to rest for our first night in PNG.
Little did I know what this day would hold when we awakened to bacon & eggs and fresh fruit and juice for breakfast. Our group of 14 divided into 3 jet boats for a full day’s excursion downstream. The weather was perfect, short sleeves all day. Our expert drivers wound their way along the winding river for almost 2 hours as we headed for the south coast of PNG. Along the way we fished for barramundi and stopped at a delightful grassy area for a packed lunch provided by the lodge. Facilities were boys to the left and girls to the right!!!! fortunately there were plenty of trees. The afternoon was even more amazing as we passed hundreds of wild deer, brolgas, horses & dozens of other animals and bird life. I cannot find winds to describe the joy I felt watching these animals roaming free in their natural habitat. We could have been in Africa? Such a pleasant change to watching animals cooped up in a zoo with little room to move. The beauty of the Egrets and brolgas soaring gently into flight has to be one of the many memories I shall always treasure from this trip. The entire day was almost unbelievable – from the pristine beauty of the landscape to watching schools of barramundi leaping about the river in dolphin joy. This was a day I shall never forget as long as I live. It ended with another beautiful sunset on the verandah as the pilot’s were briefed for the next leg of the trip, Bensbach to Madang.
WEDNESDAY July 7th
Sadly we waved goodbye to the staff as we left Bensbach to fly to Madang, everyone wanted to linger longer it was such a place of peace and tranquility. The weather was again ‘BF & S’, aeronautical lingo for ‘bloody fine and sunny’. The clouds seemed to cover the whole of PNG however the goslings all found Madang on the north coast and we certainly noticed an increase in the temperature and humidity. Aircraft secured, we departed in 2 buses for the main town of Madang where people wanted to make phone calls & send postcards plus quickly visit the local market. All this accomplished we headed for the 45 minute drive north to Malolo Plantation Lodge. What a welcome!! Smiling staff met us with lei’s of flowers and coconuts carved with welcomes and full of cool and refreshing coconut milk. The Lodge resembles a palace with ornate carvings and paintings and rooms with views of the Bismark Sea and Kar Kar Island. Each room has a private and separate verandah and 21st century comfort. Again, after pilot’s de briefing we were treated to a choice of evening meals including fresh barramundi. The rhythmic sounds of the waves lulled us into a blissful sleep, after a refreshing dip in the pool.
THURSDAY July 8th
Very early, some of our group went for a kayak ride before another hearty breakfast of bacon & eggs. We then departed in a mini bus for the village of our local guide Simon who had accompanied us from the airport in Madang. Simon introduced us to many of his wantoks and we were treated to a demonstration of some sacred musical instruments. One of Simon’s sons scaled a tall palm tree & we were each gifted with a coconut for the cool drink it contained, as we marvelled at his dexterity particularly when he scaled the tree for the second time solely for us to take more photographs!
We also visited Wassap village where the residents delighted us with a very colourful Sing Sing. In the background was a vista of the blue soaring mountains that form the spine or backbone of the PNG continent. Again the friendliness of the villagers was overwhelming and we took group photos. The people lined up and waved goodbye as we rode away on the rocky road back to the lodge for yet another sumptuous lunch.
That afternoon some of our group chose to go snorkelling, whilst others went walking and swimming. The evening brought the briefing for the following days flying, happy hour, delicious meal and another restful sleep amidst the palm trees that surround the lodge.
FRIDAY July 9th
An early departure and more goodbye’s to the wonderful staff set us off in the minibus for the Madang airport in BF & S weather. Again Bill led the goslings with Bob coming in the rear when everyone was safely airborne. This was sure a wonderful trip as each pilot flew around the Mannum Island Live Volcano in a full clockwise direction. This time I had the second set of earphones and could hear all the chatter between the pilots and the control towers. The volcano was amazing with smoke pouring forth from its crater. Most of us seemed to capture great photographs as we then headed towards the mouth of the Sepik River. Some pilots followed the river towards KARAWARI, while others took short cuts. The clouds thinned out somewhat and visibility was good if you flew at a lower altitude that seemed to suit Bob. After dive-bombing a boat cruising up the Sepik we headed in to Karawari landing only after everyone else was safely down.
The airstrip was VERY hot in Karawari (especially if you have come from freezing cold Melbourne!), I was glad our stay was short as we headed off in a launch for the Sepik Spirit moored a short distance upstream. Now, here was a surprise – comfort of a magnitude I had not imagined. Each couple had a private fully equipped suite for the next 3 nights. The Sepik Spirit was marvellous, staff and guests all friendly and interesting. In between excursions, we lazed around the lounge area in utmost comfort or dined magnificently in the delightful dining area. The entire boat is adorned with carvings from the Sepik area and a source of great mirth as there is much emphasis on the differences between males and females graphically depicted in the wood carvings.
Bob had left us at the strip at Karawari because due to circumstances he needed to return to Madang with passengers. He then flew back for the second time to Karawari for another load of passengers. After returning to Madang he then proceeded to Mt Hagen for supplies before landing at Karawari for the 3rd time that day. He calmly joined us before the evening meal on the Sepik Spirit. For Bob it was another routine day in PNG, for us it was a day of excitement and new experiences. During the afternoon, most of our group went by launch to a local village for a Sing Sing and were lucky enough to see a crocodile lazing by the side of the river.
Everyone so enjoyed the camaraderie of the Sepik Spirit. The boat moved smoothly down the Karawari River before coming to a stop each evening in a picturesque setting. The constant air conditioning was a welcome relief from the humid heat outdoors. Despite the full compliment of staff and passengers aboard, this boat is so well planned, it was easy to find a quiet place for some thoughtful meditation as the sun lazily faded into the night sky.
Following another hot breakfast, the travellers set off for the local village of MUMERI. Then after lunch we left again by barge for MINDIMBIT VILLAGES 1 & 2. Here we were treated to a demonstration on local ways of cooking sago and the unusual cooking pots used in this area. We also observed a group of men carving artefacts that were available for purchase by tourists and visitors. Again we were warmly welcomed into these villages where hardships were evident by the flood marks we could clearly see marked on the trees and stumps holding their thatched huts.
We crossed the junction of the KROSSMERI & KARAWARI RIVERS and joined the Sepik River for the first time. It is the longest river in PNG, fast flowing and filled with fish. A journey on the Sepik River is like a step back in time - life is primitive, and the abundance of plants and animals is truly astonishing. The 700-mile or 1,125-km river, which can be as wide as a half mile or one kilometre in some areas, is divided into three regions: upper, middle and lower.
Following Happy Hour enhanced with copious amounts of pink Chinese
crisps provided by the Sepik Spirit chef, we enjoyed another sumptuous meal
before retiring for another restful sleep in our comfortable suites.
SUNDAY July 11th
This day had to be one of the major highlights of our trip. When we set out in the jet boats at 8.30am I knew our journey would be special but I truly had not grasped the thought of how amazing it was to be in such a remote and seldom visited area of PNG by tourists. Following a 7.30am hot cooked breakfast, we sped upstream in the middle Sepik area for a full hour and a half. The scenery was delightful, a mixture of palm trees, open plains, small villages, bird life and leaping fish. Whenever we passed anyone fishing from a canoe, our driver slowed so we would not swamp them. Often a mother and her children could be seen fishing for the evening meal.
Finally we entered the huge expanse of the Chambri Lake area. Wow. The water was so calm before our fast boat disturbed the tranquillity. The first village we visited was Aibom. As we approached we could see villagers running to bring out their artefacts for us to peruse and hopefully purchase. As the people kindly assisted us disembarking, I was most surprised to hear strains of a Catholic hymn permeating the silence. Later I learned this village has been visited by Catholic missionaries over many years and being Sunday a church service was in progress. It seemed somewhat irreverent that our visit happened to fit into our program yet intruded on their Sunday morning, however the people were very gracious about our intrusion. It seems that Aibom is unique and renowned because of the most unusual pottery pots they make. People from villages close and far make the journey to Aibom in their open canoes to trade.
Our group was only too willing to purchase some of the beautiful artefacts made in this village. The unusual cooking pots we had seen in a previous village were in fact made here. We spent some time here playing with the children, taking photographs, and being proudly shown around the village. It was sad having to leave these new found friends so quickly. A memory I shall retain was something written on a sheet of paper and pinned to the wall of the classroom in the Mission school.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF LIFE?
God made me to know Him, to love Him, and to serve Him in this world
and to be happy with Him forever in the next.
In just 26 words is the reason for our existence.
Memories of my own early childhood learning this same message flooded my mind. Nowadays the language of referring to God as male has become very politically incorrect and unacceptable in many circles. I wondered what image of God the women of this village must have given the subservient role they play in the PNG society as females. As a former missionary, I am pleased my time was spent entirely giving medical care. There comes a time in life when some of us outgrow our childhood traditions. I would like to write much more about Missionaries, Christianity and Papua New Guinea, but shall save it for another time.
We then proceeded to the village of WOMBUN, a little further around the lake. This village used a completely different language to AIBOM, however many of the people spoke either English or Pigin – and communicating was not too difficult as with all the other villages we had visited. Wombun was a much larger village with three distinct parts each adjoining the other by a small wooden footbridge. A totally new array of artefacts delighted us and it was impossible to resist such amazing craftsmanship.
Here we were privileged to enter the village Spirit House, normally never visited by women. There is a line around this sacred area that women and children must never pass, lest they receive a punishment too terrible to speak about we were informed. An area was cleared for us to sit down and watch the men display their dances and play their musical instruments. Special mementos hung from the ceiling along with the odd spider or two. Again we were allowed to take photos.
Before leaving we saw a live crocodile being held captive in the village. The people assisted us into our boat and as we sped away, a large European style Church building could be seen on the banks of the river.
We then moved to an island in the centre of the CHAMBRI LAKE to partake of a delicious lunch of chicken & salad, coffee cake and bananas, provided for us in individual containers again by the Sepik Spirit chef. Even moistened finger towelettes and ice cold water had been provided for our comfort.
By this stage we were becoming tired from the heat so we headed home for the Sepik Spirit. The trip took around 2 hours and as our boat brushed against the reeds along the side of the mighty Sepik River, huge fish leaped into the air. Laughter and screams rang forth as fish jumped right into our boat and we scrambled for cameras to record such a remarkable event. We threw the bewildered fish back into the river and enjoyed the scenery (a few folk were seen to be dozing!) till we rounded a corner and there waiting for us was the majestic Sepik Spirit.
For the evening meal Bob had invited some of the local missionaries from Timbunke to join us and this capped off a wonderful day. They filled us in on the difficulties of their work in such a remote area particularly in rendering effective medical service. Fortunately we are able to assist them in a practical and ongoing manner by sending them at regular intervals packages of useful items. The Mission staff endure much hardship given the heat; the isolation; the lack of roads, radios, telephones and power.
It was a weary group who fell into their cosy beds that evening.
MONDAY July 12th
Refreshed, we headed 40 minutes downstream in our jet boat for the village of TANBANUM. Cheryl & Barry were particularly looking forward to this visit because they wanted to purchase a carved crocodile produced by these villagers. They were not disappointed as several amazing life size crocodiles were for sale and several of our group purchased magnificent specimens. In fact we found many interesting artefacts for sale here and happily we spent a couple of hours wandering around the village and again playing with the children. We returned with a large number of excellent purchases and spent the next few hours watching the Sepik Spirit staff expertly pack everything ready for us to transport back to Australia.
There was some delay before we left for KARAWARI because of the availability of the Islander aircraft. We certainly were becoming used to PNG ‘time’ and I rarely noticed anyone ever consult their watch! Lunch was a plate of delicious and hastily prepared tomato & cheese sandwiches. Eventually we moved across the river to Timbunke from the Sepik Spirit. Half our group left on the first flight while the rest of us examined the Mission Hospital and various buildings. The heat was oppressive as we waited for the Islander to return. This proved to be an interesting departure as dogs kept wandering across the airstrip!! Finally our pilot turned off the engines and we waited patiently while the dogs were eventually cleared many minutes later.
A picturesque flight took us from TIMBUNKE to KARAWARI. In a motorised launch we took a short ride to the famous Karawari Lodge. A bus took most of us up a steep hill to the Lodge itself in time for a magnificent sunset, though a few of our more robust adventurers insisted on walking! (er, I was not one of them!). Although it was around 4pm, we had the lunch that had been prepared for us, as we had been expected much earlier in the day. We explored the Lodge and grounds, showered, took photos, shared some drinks & the pilots were briefed for the following days trip – Karawari to Mt Hagen.
It was interesting and pleasant sleeping under mosquito nets, then waking to a lovely view across the river.
TUESDAY July 13th
The morning’s plan was for the 6 pilots and Dianne to fly to Mt Hagen and secure their aircraft. Dianne was leaving us in Hagen as she needed to return to Australia to meet her daughter. The remaining 7 of our party would proceed on the Islander aircraft direct to Ambua Lodge. It was not a long flight across to Ambua, though very interesting watching from the air the patchwork effect on the countryside achieved by the different garden vegetation and fences peculiar to the Huli area of PNG.
The airstrip at Ambua was somewhat rugged but following a perfect landing we were warmly greeted by Pauline and some of the lodge staff. A vehicle took us over the winding track that leads to Ambua itself and our first glimpse of those little huts descending down the hill more than met our expectations. We spent some time getting settled into our units, admiring the view and having a welcome hot drink. We explored the Ambua Craft shop and finally had some lunch. We were all awaiting news of the 6 planes that had departed Karawari for Mt Hagen and were then the pilots coming to Ambua in the Islander. It had continued to Mt Hagen to collect them after delivering us at Ambua. As time went on we were told the Islander was delayed at Hagen because part of the strip had been closed and they were unable to take off.
Sometime around 2pm we were given the bad news that John Sutching had a mishap with his aircraft when landing at Mt Hagen and his plane had caught fire and was totally destroyed. The good news was that John had escaped this catastrophe completely unhurt. John had successfully navigated the difficult trip from Karawari to Mt Hagen through heavy cloud, avoided all those tall ominous mountains only to neglect to lower the landing gear prior to a perfect touch down at Hagen airport. It was some time before the plane ignited but unfortunately there was no fire crew in attendance at Mt Hagen and the pilots all had to watch John’s beloved Baron go up in flames.
Eventually the group arrived safely in Ambua at 7,000 feet altitude, and this close knit group of friends were there for each other as they came to terms with the tragedy. John was assured he was not the first and will not be the last pilot to make the terrible mistake of failing to lower the wheels prior to landing. The evening brought some special and surprise celebrations for Geoff’s birthday that lifted everyone’s spirits.
WEDNESDAY July 14th
After viewing dawn across the valley and a delicious breakfast, we departed on a mini bus for a full days outing to some local Huli villages. Our first stop was for a Sing Sing, a grand occasion of warriors decked in full Huli costumes, face paint and head dresses. We learned about the traditional making of the Huli wigs and the importance of the feathers. More warm hospitality was extended to us by these delightful and friendly people.
At the second village, 3 women demonstrated for us the tradition of ‘grieving’ – the expected custom to be followed by Huli women. A skull and other bones prominently displayed helped us remember that we were indeed a visitor in a primitive land that sometimes gives the impression that this is indeed ‘a land that time has forgotten’. One woman was the dead man’s widow, another the man’s sister plus a companion who looks out for the widow during her grieving process.
The third village was also our lunch stop and a thatched hut with seating allowed us to eat our lunch in complete privacy. A light shower of rain in no way dampened our enthusiasm to learn all we could about village life. We were again privileged to watch a traditional Huli Courtship ceremony and the significance of everything explained to us in detail by our English speaking Ambua Lodge guide and bus driver. Again this was a fascinating experience. I noted the dense population of the Tari area compared to the smaller and more isolated villages we had left along the Sepik river.
Our last stop for the day was a riotous occasion, as we watched a re-enactment of a traditional wedding ceremony, Huli style. A large woman, obviously with a good sense of humour and quite a thespian also, played the part of the mother making quite a scene over the exchange of the pigs and the bride price. Again we took photos and shared hugs and left more new friends in this remote area of PNG.
THURSDAY July 15th
The day was greeted with a BF & S valley with cloud clinging to the distant blue hills. The more intrepid members of our party set off for a fairly challenging walk over a few vine bridges to the waterfall. Many fronted up for another walk in the afternoon in a different direction. The rest of us lazed around the Lodge enjoying every delight nature has to offer at 7,000 feet close to heaven. The bird life was amazing and several avid bird watchers were guests at the Lodge during our stay.
That evening was our last in PNG and we shared an enjoyable meal together over the table at Ambua in the corner with the heated floor. A comforting log fire completed the scene as we again told our after dinner stories so we each could know one another a little better. Each evening throughout our trip someone had been designated to tell a story and David never failed to come up with at least one good (mmm maybe) joke every evening.
FRIDAY July 16th
Our last day on PNG soil and a day to test the patience of some as there was lots of waiting around. We were transported from Ambua back to Mt Hagen in 2 groups. Being in the second group, I was able to enjoy a few more hours watching the beautiful clouds around the Ambuan hills. Finally we all met up again in Mt Hagen after an amazing air flight. It was obvious that taking off from Ambua airstrip is a much scarier experience than landing – guess you just have to be there!! Again the scenery was breathtaking as we flew across Tari, through the infamous Tari Gap, over Mendi and past Mt Giluwe into Mt Hagen itself.
John Sutching had a long session with the PNG Civil Aviation Authorities whilst the rest of us attended to paperwork regarding our departure from PNG. It was somewhat hot and uncomfortable though we managed to find a shaded place to sit. Lots of basket work was on sale and I managed to procure the last artefacts to take home for gifts. Here we left John Bates who was remaining in PNG for some more time at Bensbach and the Hagen Show in August.
Finally, everyone was cleared to leave and our group of 5 aircraft prepared for take off. Being with Bob, we were the last to leave and again I was lucky to have the spare radio set so I could tune into what was happening as we headed for Horn Island on the last leg of our trip. Bob diverted slightly from the normal route so we could fly over Ialibu, Pangia and Wiliame – the area where I had lived and worked for 2 years many years previously. I have to admit shedding a few nostalgic tears!
We all arrived safely at Horn Island where almost an hour and a half was spent clearing Customs and Quarantine. It is comforting to know these people are so thorough even when they search through your personal effects in full view of everyone right there on the tarmac!! Only one of my purchases had to be given in for Quarantine. A Story Board we had purchased was to go into cold storage for 8 days and then would be forwarded to us COD. So we wait!!
Our last night together was a happy time though tinged with sadness that always comes when leaving friends. All agreed that it had been an amazing trip and the pilot’s knew more about flying in cloud when they left PNG than when they arrived. I picked up that you have a choice of flying under or over cloud and whichever choice you make at some point you have to find a hole in those clouds to either ascend or descend. There is always cloud cover in PNG because of the number of mountains, it is a fact of life.
Saturday July 17th
6am breakfast at Horn Island and with the exception of Val & Greg flying to Melbourne later in the morning with Qantas, everyone left in light aircraft. The trip of a lifetime was over. The goodbyes were finished. Time to return to our other lives with memories of friends and mountains and aeroplanes dancing in our heads forever. Thankyou Bill and Bob and companions on the journey. Tasol, Amen.